Three Short Walks Continued

By: Alan & Kathleen Somerville

The next section started in Edale on May 10 with our capes on, real Kinder Scout weather and there was thick mist above 1,000 ft. up on Jacob’s Ladder, after the rain stopped we plodded through the mist with square miles of bog on our right, a sheer drop on our left following closely the path marked by cairns.

The lesson was soon learned the compass should have been out and very disappointed at not keeping strictly to the path, we were camped in Ashop Clough in the early evening.
Next day, we regained the path and crossed the Snake Road as we made for Bleaklaw Head via, Devil’s Dyke where the visibility dropped to five yards across the most horrid peat groughs. Crossing the Hem Clough entailed dropping into a 20ft groove in cocoa-coloured custard and clambering out the other side, heading on into the Dowstone Clough.

You have only the compass to guide you into the correct one, and you have to get within five yards of the Ordnance column. Fine, but visibility was only three yards, the mist cleared as we dropped to Reap’s Farm after Bleaklaw Head lunching near the farm which looked like a sawdust factory.

We later learned it was a maggot farm, catering for those funny folk and fishermen.
Later on in the pouring rain at Laddow Rocks, four National Park Wardens we met advised us not to go over Black Hill, but to skirt around at 1,950ft. Flat spots to camp were not plentiful around here, but we found a pitch and slept well.

Black Hill was taken the next day when we were fresh. The peat must dry out quite quickly after 12 hours without rain, some of it changing from runny custard to plain `goo', we passed to the right of the column where we found the remains of a WWII bomber before we dropped down on the east side of issue Clough.

The wrong side, but we were too pleased to be off the top to care about a slight detour. The weather and the way improved to Hebden Bridge and the first shops after four days and 42 miles.

Our plan was that this was to be a holiday and 10 miles a day would satisfy us, we wanted to see and enioy the Pennine Way and this speed would take us to Middleton-inTeesdale on schedule.

The ‘Peat District’ National Park and reservoir after reservoir come into view, how well our grandfathers built those water works, the masonry is superb even the little houses where they turn the tap off on the end of the piers, were given dummy windows for effect with sculptured lintels and sills. What a difference to the concrete we later saw across the top of Cauldron Snout, soon to be Cauldron Trickle.

In pouring rain, you don’t always refer to the map and compass and on one such day there were two adjacent gates. We followed the Vibram sole prints and dripping wet we reached a pub. There, mine host stoked the fire up and we were dry by closing time, but we were in Earby instead of Thornton-in-Craven at which point the boots went to the Youth Hostel. We nearly did the same at Mankinholes.

As a bonus, in the pub was a retired Lancastrian, the type whose twang always reminds us of Lancashire comics. Well, this chap’s life in cotton was related to us from when the barges were full to the brim with Jhotis for India, through the hard times working on roads and reservoirs until 1937, when Smith & Nephew opened a mill to put the pink lint on the Elastoplast's. Hence, our hero became mill manager and was now drinking away a nice pension.

These are the gold nuggets you find on the way, as are the pastry shops, a pork shop at Hawes, had freshly made billberry tarts and macaroons which helped down with a pint of milk slowed us on the continuing walk. We also picked up fresh meat for the evening meal, keeping the dried meals for the days when we don’t pass any shops.
As the Brontë country was reached, we thought we would go right through Yorkshire and not find a gate on its hinges. Binder twine was standard on both sides, which seemed a waste of farmers working time and our own, opening & securing the gates.

So run-down is this once intensively farmed area with the remains of large well-built farmhouses, that today some of the occupiers appear to be more like static gypsies with farm yard junk being the main crop. The path up the Airs Valley was lovely walking with views of lush green farm and park land.

At Malham, we took the day off and what else to do, but go for a walk. Gordale Scar is just made for this, but pouring rain took the shine off our busman’s holiday. The hotel and pub have `NO BOOTS' signs and one states ‘No socks" either, luckily there was no such restriction was made at Beck Hall, a short distance upstream.

The Sparth House B&B was recommended to us by six Doctors and a Patient walking in the opposite direction. This was a wise choice that I can pass on, the guest house would have been chosen in any case, as it comes recommended by the Ramblers Association and Cycle Touring Club. It proved to be a very good choice and we campers were welcomed, with good food and an extra large bathroom.

The next camp was at Penyghent and my idea of a summit camp was not accepted, after a cold night by Hull Pot we looked out to see Penyghent, a two-tiered Iced cake with snow on the top.

Be sure to call at the cafe at the north end of Horton-in-Ribblesdale, for their pint pots of pot-holers tea and Chorley cake, a sort of Eccles cake with butter on. Be sure to ASK for the Pennine Way Walker’s book to sign in and read the other comments.
Note the first name in the book, Tom Stephenson.

Next, the fine turf of the pack horseway Cam High Road to Gayle, following on to Hawes then Hardrow Force, behind the Green Dragon Inn and up and over Great Shunner Fell, then a long drag up to Thwaite and Keld in Swalesdale.

If you don’t linger In this area you will certainly mark it down for a future visit. Easy going describes the route to Tan Hill pub, said to he the highest in England. Beware of the unfenced pit shafts only yards from the path.

Immediately after Tan Hill is Sleightholme Moor, the wettest walking you could ever encounter. I was in it up to my thighs and my thighs are a long way up.

Campers may not wish to take the Bowes alternative, not needing the Youth Hostel unless they want to spend time in the Museum. Over the A66, then the reservoirs of Baldersdale and Lunedale and into Middleton-ln-Teesdale.

Our 140 mile quota was completed at by noon on the second Wednesday and with 42 miles to Alston, we set off with a good heart.

The walk up the Tees proved to be the highlight of the Way, having camped at Middleton so often, yet never knowing what was nearby for those on foot. Low Force was as pleasing as High Force, followed by Falcon Clints, Cauldron Snout and High Cup Nick.
This was said by many walkers to be the best portion of the way.

After Dufton, it was a climb all the way to Crossfell. Oh! the long mine track to Garrigill; terrible on the feet, enough to make you remember Featherbed Moss with affection.
Hereabouts, Wainwright tells us where to collect fluorspar to make a decorative cairn for the mantelpiece, as a reminder of your journey, it is cheaper than buying a pennon for the tent guy ropes!

As we waited for the bus for home at Alston, the police were having a busy time marshalling the Whitsuntide flood of Lakeland-bound motorists. The noise and the smell! We had hardly seen a car for two whole weeks.

We planned to walked the final stage during the August Bank Holiday which was eagerly awaited and again the section was 42 miles, with three days to do it.

Continue to the Final Section

Northumbrian Tent Camping Association